The menswear market is full of “stretch suits,” “performance tailoring,” and “athleisure suiting.” They promise comfort and flexibility — but most of these suits are poorly constructed, difficult to alter, and nearly impossible to shape correctly.

Let’s make one thing clear: not all stretch is the same. Luxury mills such as Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, Drapers, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Carnet produce exceptional stretch wools that are primarily superfine wool with minimal elastane — engineered specifically for tailoring. These fabrics maintain drape, structure, and longevity.

The issue lies with synthetic, mass-market “athleisure suits” made from nylon, polyester, and spandex blends. They’re glued (not stitched), overly elastic, and designed for speed — not fit. They lack seam allowance, warp under pressure, and cannot hold a press. When you alter them, seams twist, fabrics pucker, and shapes collapse.

Worse, most stores selling these garments don’t have fitters trained to recognize what can and cannot be altered. Customers are sold a “performance suit” that feels soft but wears poorly — and ends up costing more in the long run.

High-end stretch fabrics from fine mills are meant to be tailored. Cheap synthetic suits are meant to be sold quickly. The difference is craftsmanship — and that’s what we defend at Manno Clothing.